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Old 09-23-2017, 10:26 AM   #1
Phil02
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Need help with alarm system

Last night some one was playing with the door lock fob and hit the unlock button a bunch of times with in a short amount of time. Now the interior lights wont turn off and the "theft" light in the instrument cluster keeps flashing. I have tried locking and unlocking the car with the fob and with the key but can't reset it. What do I do? HELP
For now I have removed the #17 fuse under the dash so the interior lights are not on all the time.
When the "theft" light keeps flashing does it mean that the system is armed or does it mean that someone tried to get in the car? I have a constant "door Ajar" light and maybe that is keeping the lights on and the "theft" light on.







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Old 09-23-2017, 02:30 PM   #2
J_C
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The theft light blinks slow, constantly with vehicle off to show the circuit is functioning. It blinks rapidly if there is a problem. Which is it doing? Edit: I am only assuming the rapid blinking state, don't know that for certain on your model year (generation of PATS II or is it PATS III then?).

I suspect that the door ajar light is indicating that the switch detecting it or the latch mechanism has failed just enough to not trigger the switch. You can try spraying a lot of WD-40 or equivalent lubricating solvent into the latch mechanism to see if the switch was just stuck, or try that again directly at the switch after pulling the whole assembly out.

Otherwise you either need to pull the latch and put a new switch on or it's just the wire to it that is damaged. Sometimes wires in that hinge area rubber boot will fray apart from so many times flexing, though this seems less likely in your case since you report it happening after someone was playing with the remote to unlock it. Make THAT person repair this, lol.

This video should help:
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Old 09-23-2017, 04:25 PM   #3
Phil02
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I tried connecting my OBD11 reader to the car but I think it maybe only reads engine and tranny signals because I see nothing about door switches. Is the door switch for the door ajar signal the same switch for the alarm system? I guess I will need to take apart each door until I find the problem.
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Old 09-23-2017, 04:44 PM   #4
J_C
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There is no OBDII code for the door latch switch. I don't know if there are any Ford specific codes for the PATS security system but if there are, you'd need a scan tool capable of understanding them.... maybe one of those wifi dongles and an android device running Forscan app might. I don't know.

I do not have a wiring diagram for an 02-05 but do have one for the prior generation. It's probably similar enough to help a little.

Is the alarm system tied to the door at all? I don't know that it is, but that mostly means "I don't know". It could be tied to it but I don't recall that. Anway, there is only the one door switch, no second one for the OEM anti-theft that I'm aware of. If there were you should see it in the door jam.

If someone installed an aftermarket alarm then they could have added a 2nd switch but that 2nd switch would not affect your interior lights.

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Old 09-23-2017, 08:10 PM   #5
Phil02
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Its the factory alarm system. I did notice while doing the spray rust buster and WD40 thing that if you use a screw driver to push the latch back like the door is closed you can see the top of the door switch so tomorrow I am going to try spraying and using something to press the ball down to free it. I will let you know if it works.
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:03 PM   #6
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It looks like I could pull the interior light relay so I can keep the fuse in place so I have the radio and window control. How do I access the relay, it's on top of the fuse rack under the dash? It looks like you need to pull the fuse rack so you can turn it over.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:58 AM   #7
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The owners manual does mention "These relays are located on the reverse side of the passenger compartment fuse panel. To access the relays you must remove the passenger compartment fuse panel.

I have never removed the fuse panel on an '02, can't advise about doing it. However I see no relay there which is listed as interior lights. Possibly the battery saver relay would do that? You could try it and see.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/53...age=232#manual

It seems like pulling fuse #17 might do the same thing, but you have already done that.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/53...age=230#manual

I'm no fan of their diagrams but the one I posted makes it look like you could unplug the offending door latch switch instead. If you can find a wiring diagram that shows the wire color for it (if it is not the same as on the diagram I posted) then you could use a multimeter with insulation piercing probe tip to measure which one is shorting to ground when it shouldn't be (when latch is in closed position), accessing the wire where it leaves the door so you aren't tearing door skins off of them all.

If you don't have a multimeter then I would advise getting one. If you have one, but no insulation piercing probe tips, a crude version of probe tips could be made by taking a needle and piece of thin wire and using the wire to lash the needle onto the multimeter stock probe tip. I wouldn't want to use that long term but to check 4 doors and the back hatch it could help.

Once you pierce the wire you would measure for resistance (or continuity mode) to chassis ground, with the one grounding in a latched latch position being wrong, unless the diagram was illustrated the reverse of what it should be, then all the rest would normally grounded and the one offending switch would be open circuit instead of grounded.

There may be some other tips in the linked video. He talks about a test using a paperclip around the 12:15 mark.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:18 PM   #8
Phil02
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I stopped by the dealer today to find out about the code for the key pad on the door pillar and asked them about the door switch / interior light situation while I was there. The guy took a quick look and apparently there is a position on the dimmer switch that can just lock out the interior lights, so it is set on that for now. The good news is that if I bring it back they can hook it to a computer that will tell me the door with the bad switch so I am not tearing everything apart. I finally feel like I am heading in the right direction.
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:27 PM   #9
J_C
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Good to know, though taking a couple door/hatch panels off (mathematically, the odds are you would find it before more than half of all 5 were pulled, especially starting with driver's door since it will have the wear) isn't much work for what I'd guess is around an $80 diagnostic fee.

The other option since all switches are the same age is just start replacing them since you're going to have to do that anyway for at least the one. I mean if it is only sticking, you might get it unstuck with WD40 or graphite, but it may just get stuck again due to wear or it might have gotten brittle over time and cracked.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:43 PM   #10
Phil02
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Replacing all the switches makes sense but I want to see it all working first. I have a feeling the wires in the drivers door hinge area may be causing some of the issue. On one of my other cars I have had to splice in sections of almost all the wires that go through that area.
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