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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a 2004 Explorer with 160000 miles. I no longer have my 2003 Explorer.
I immediately had to have both wheel bearings in back replaced and was told the cv axles on passenger side had recently been changed before I bought it. I have a abs code for passenger front and feel like front hubs will be changed next.
I have Eddie Bauer edition rear wheel drive independent suspension with cv axles in rear.
I’m hearing a grinding sound like I have to be cautious with acceleration bc it sounds like a wheel is spinning or grinding sound like a stuck caliper or rubbing brake sound.

why are all bearings bad at 160000 miles??Buying online I can buy two cheaper than one at Auto Zone.

one rear bearing install, a shop used a hammer and torch not a press to remove and or install bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A shop told me I don’t have a stuck caliper. I’m skeptical to buy cheaper parts online bc I don’t know what I would be getting in quality compared to local part houses.
 

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Might not be the bearings but only the CV joint. So you see any grease or a broken rubber boot? Grinding could also just be the shield on the disc brakes rubbing against the rotor? Have you put it up and turned the tires or removed the tires and looked at the joint and brakes?
 

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I recently bought a 2004 Explorer with 160000 miles. I no longer have my 2003 Explorer.
I immediately had to have both wheel bearings in back replaced and was told the cv axles on passenger side had recently been changed before I bought it. I have a abs code for passenger front and feel like front hubs will be changed next.
I have Eddie Bauer edition rear wheel drive independent suspension with cv axles in rear.
I’m hearing a grinding sound like I have to be cautious with acceleration bc it sounds like a wheel is spinning or grinding sound like a stuck caliper or rubbing brake sound.

why are all bearings bad at 160000 miles??Buying online I can buy two cheaper than one at Auto Zone.

one rear bearing install, a shop used a hammer and torch not a press to remove and or install bearing.

This generation of Explorer's is notorious for bearing failure. Usually this is due to bearing seal failure, esp if the vehicle was used to launch and retrieve boats or used in wet, esp salt treated roads.

Removing the rear bearings can be an absolute bitch on these explorers. Watch Eric the Car guys youtube on his 04 r&r.

I tried this myself on my 04 EB. Gave up, took the rear knuckles to a shop and paid $120 to press out the old bearings and press in the new ones. When one is bad the other soon will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Might not be the bearings but only the CV joint. So you see any grease or a broken rubber boot? Grinding could also just be the shield on the disc brakes rubbing against the rotor? Have you put it up and turned the tires or removed the tires and looked at the joint and brakes?
Been to several shops and asked them to look.
 

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My '04 just had both rear wheel bearings replaced at 145K miles. It just seems like routine maintenance to me. The shop (a Nissan dealership) also did the rear brakes and the e-brake. Money well spent. I have had the struts replaced and some electrical issues but this has been the single most expensive repair to date. I currently have had a fuel rail pressure sensor engine code.... it has been on (check engine light) for years though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found a post about friction modifier and fluid in differential. I went a shop today and the mechanic stated it’s making a noise in the rear but only when turning. Grinding noise at rear wheels when turning - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

It sounds like you are trying to pull a trailer with brakes on. It appears to be noise from the rear and when turning. (Maybe primarily at low speed turns) it’s also like you want to be easy with acceleration bc it feels like you are spinning tires.
how do I know if I have limited slip???

I did order the front wheel hub assemblies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I received a tsb stating it may be clutch packs in the differential. I was told clutches are not available to buy.
going to try gear oil and friction modifier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I felt like my differential was going out. Saturday I asked Walmart to check my rear tires and I had a separated belt on driver side tire.
Today I changed the gear oil and added friction modifier from Ford and seems like the low speed turning noise in rear seems to be gone. I used a 1/2 drove to 3/4 drive adapter and I rested the end of ratchet handle on a Jack I used a Jack gravity and weight to loosen the bottom drain it was that tight. Now just waiting on front hub assemblies in the mail.
Water Blue Fluid Musical instrument Wood

noise in rear is gone. The fluid was completely black
 

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Thanks for the update, can you post a couple of pictures of the differential and which drains/fill holes you used and how much of each fluid/friction modifier you used. Our 2003 Explorer makes what seems close to the same noise at lower speeds and when turning. If I just rest my foot on the brake, the noise goes away. Happens only when cold and overly damp.

2003 Explorer Limited 4.6 4WD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There’s a tsb. This was my first time messing with a differential this video pretty much made it possible for me. I need fords friction modifier for my limited slip differential with independent suspension. I bought a 1/2 drive to 3/4 drive at Lowe’s for about 11 dollars

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ford motor craft friction modifier 4 0z
Walmart super tech synthetic gear oil 75w140 bought three bottles used almost 2
Best advice is make sure you can open top fill drain before the bottom otherwise you drain the fluid and can’t refill it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I used a Jack against handle of my ratchet and raised Jack to loosen the bottom drain bolt. Some have reported causing damage to cover and were unable to loosen bottom plug.
Product Font Line Screenshot Parallel
 
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