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Hello,

This is my first time posting to a forum for a vehicle I've owned lol so bear with me if I don't include everything you may need to know. So, I have a 2006 4.0L Limited with 223k miles. Recently changed the valve cover gaskets along with the intake manifold gaskets, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Was running fine before all this was done minus the oil leak from bad gaskets and a rough idle from really really old spark plugs. Still needs many things to include a brake fluid flush, power steering flush, radiator swap, and suspension rebuild. Assembled everything, went to drive and died several times within half a mile. Mechanic diagnosed it as exposed wires for the mass airflow sensor, fixed that, car became drivable but still rough. Couldn't go over 2.5k RPM, couldn't accelerate fast, and when in "manual mode", the car struggles heavily but does not die. Also idled SUPER rough, coming close to dying shaking the car violently and then jumping to 2k RPM for a while. Also is running super rich. Replaced the sensor due to a "low voltage mass airflow sensor" code, P0102, some things are better but others not. For example, I can go up to 4k RPM before the engine starts to buck and choke, accelerate decently, still running super rich and you can smell the exhaust fumes, but I still can't really drive in "manual mode". The idle is much much smoother, sits around 500rpm at temp. However, I am throwing several codes still - P0102, P0155, P0443, P0135, P0141, P0161, P1000, P0403. These are a lot of codes to throw suddenly after a simple valve cover gasket change, and I did not touch any of these sensors besides the mass airflow sensor. Anyone got any clues?
 

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Hello,

This is my first time posting to a forum for a vehicle I've owned lol so bear with me if I don't include everything you may need to know. So, I have a 2006 4.0L Limited with 223k miles. Recently changed the valve cover gaskets along with the intake manifold gaskets, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Was running fine before all this was done minus the oil leak from bad gaskets and a rough idle from really really old spark plugs. Still needs many things to include a brake fluid flush, power steering flush, radiator swap, and suspension rebuild. Assembled everything, went to drive and died several times within half a mile. Mechanic diagnosed it as exposed wires for the mass airflow sensor, fixed that, car became drivable but still rough. Couldn't go over 2.5k RPM, couldn't accelerate fast, and when in "manual mode", the car struggles heavily but does not die. Also idled SUPER rough, coming close to dying shaking the car violently and then jumping to 2k RPM for a while. Also is running super rich. Replaced the sensor due to a "low voltage mass airflow sensor" code, P0102, some things are better but others not. For example, I can go up to 4k RPM before the engine starts to buck and choke, accelerate decently, still running super rich and you can smell the exhaust fumes, but I still can't really drive in "manual mode". The idle is much much smoother, sits around 500rpm at temp. However, I am throwing several codes still - P0102, P0155, P0443, P0135, P0141, P0161, P1000, P0403. These are a lot of codes to throw suddenly after a simple valve cover gasket change, and I did not touch any of these sensors besides the mass airflow sensor. Anyone got any clues?
Sounds Ike it is running much worse than b4 your work. Give the symptoms I suspect a vacuum leak. The ecu has the injectors running at .ax to compensate, hence the gas in the exhaust. Your cats must be about ready to set theatrics on fire.

You need to check for vacuum leaks and perhaps redo your work. A good mechanic would have done this instead of just pulling a code and swapping parts.

Watch the "South Main Auto" and "Watch Wes Work" channels on you tube and see how great mechanics diagnose...
 

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Sounds Ike it is running much worse than b4 your work. Give the symptoms I suspect a vacuum leak. The ecu has the injectors running at .ax to compensate, hence the gas in the exhaust. Your cats must be about ready to set theatrics on fire.

You need to check for vacuum leaks and perhaps redo your work. A good mechanic would have done this instead of just pulling a code and swapping parts.

Watch the "South Main Auto" and "Watch Wes Work" channels on you tube and see how great mechanics diagnose...
Hi, I'm new to the forums but I have a plethora of information for you. I'm going to start a thread shortly based on my findings, but essentially unless you want to pull the entire engine/transmission harness and rewire the whole thing your car is junk. New harnesses are NLA (no longer available).

Long story short, i bought an '06 that needed a timing job. After complete engine rebuild I start inspecting what else needs fixed. At first I noticed the fan clutch wire connector wires were exposed and touching. I spent a couple weeks looking for replacements or how to repair. I even went to several junk yards and everything I found came with the same result. What I've found that if the harness has ever been disturbed for any reason, i.e. engine change, manifold gasket, etc. The wire insulation cracks and becomes brittle. I did further inspection on my harness and nearly EVERY connector had cracked and brittle insulation at the point the wires are typically flexed. Again, new parts are NLA and used parts are 90% junk or will soon be. I'll make a more thorough post and also share findings to other forum boards. '06-'10 Explorers/Mountaineers are destined to the scrap heap. At least based on what I've seen.
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Automotive tire Asphalt Road surface Flooring Floor

Motor vehicle Vehicle Electrical wiring Hood Gas
 
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