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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
URGENT:
Sometimes I turn the key I hear the pump, it starts.
Other times there is no pump, but relay is working.
I suspect open circuit making occasional contact, then none again.
Problem was rare at 1st, now can barely get pump to activate/ run. Stuck here and can't get out. AGAIN.
Pump was new about 2 years back. When it runs, it sounds as normal as can be. Thankfully it hasn't stranded me out of the yard.
I really need help.
 

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There's an inertia switch located on the passenger side
firewall, press the button and then see if it starts.

If that dosen't help, I'd suspect the fuel pump, even
though it's relatively new. Some of the lower priced
ones are mfg. offshore and fail quickly. Good brands
are Carter, Bosch, Motorcraft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks so much for the replies!
It's not either I don't think, Here's why.
(I'll test the inertia switch when daylight arrives), but because sometimes it starts instantly. That seems to eliminate that firewall switch, and this pump is a brand new Very little time on it over 2 years, maybe 3000 miles at best, Motorcraft pump. My GF actually paid for it (And it wasn't cheap to say the least) because I didn't have the money. (AND it turned out not to be the issue back then, for a different problem). When it does run, the pump sounds strong & normal.
In taking the cover off of the relay yesterday, I verified it's functioning properly and has clean shiny contacts.
I've got no income currently and for some extended time now, or I would buy a new manual.
I had one and it has just completely vanished. Can't find it anywhere.
BUT, I suspect perhaps a momentary open circuit or momentary short? just not sure how to find something like that.

Just praying I don't have to drop that full fuel tank again! Ughhh... (I'm working on my back on wet ground) I am 99% sure it's something to do with wires. The not starting thing has got worse over time.. (closer together in instances) But once running you can drive for hours each time. Which sounds more like wiring. Something where insulation wore off, or something along those lines.?

I only know this really sucks! I am having to use the back up truck (Dodge Ram) which costs money I don't have to borrow. It just DRINKS gas, so I have GOT to get this Ford going. It's cost me thousands on credit cards this year. (On the road mechanical failures) The issue is mega frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here's the key frustration.
I went out to test the inertia switch this AM, but I always just turn the key to the ACC position, (but not all the way to the start position) just prior to see if there is a fuel pump activation. Now, without doing anything since this problem began, I get fuel the running fuel pump.
Ughhh, makes for difficult troubleshooting!
I'm afraid to drive it and shut it off anywhere as it can go right back to no fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Like a bad joke... Just tried it again and guess what. No fuel pump. So I tested the inertia switch. Both positions, no difference. tried tapping it with a screw driver & it still trips it. So my guess is not the switch. Ran great this am. Drove it around the property, came back, parked it, a few hours later, no pump.
 

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Your symptoms are similiar to my experience with a
bad pump on a Ranger. In my case, it was indeed the
pump, and when I cut it apart the brushes had worn
out the copper commutator.

However, in your case with the recently installed Motorcraft,
the pump is probably OK.

These pumps require nearly 12v to run, and resistance in
the circuit wiring would certainly cause problems. You
might try switching the FP relay with the AC relay to
positively rule it out. Even though it clicks when energized
it could still have high resistance. Also check the relay
plug-in for corrosion, and take a close look at the
inertia switch plug. Sometimes they will get hot even to
the point of melting the plastic, giving a poor connection.

Another possibility is the fuel pump connector near the
tank. I don't know how easy it is to reach on your model,
but you could unplug it and spray with some contact
cleaner to see if that helps. The only other suggestion
would be to take a voltage reading at the relay socket,
inertial switch, and fuel pump plug to see if there's a
drop in voltage somewhere in the circuit....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so Much LoneRanger..
I shall check each very good suggestion. I think they are excellent progression of troubleshooting. If all is well, I'll consider another pump replacement.
That tank is nearly full and it'll be SO not fun to drop down. The connector is directly above the tank. so to check requires dropping the tank. I do recall observing it when replacing the pump last time. it was clean looking.. but could also have worn somewhere.
The inside of that relay especially the contacts looked shiny too. but switching is a super test.. the inertia Sw "Looks" like new as well. but I do know switches can be intermittent too. While the pump was in it's NO run status, that switch in either position did not give me a running pump. So Just shy of replacing the pump I think I will run a new positive lead and make sure I am seeing a good ground at the tank. I am not too well off in the income dept, so I can't simply drop a new pump in, like last time when the girl friend paid for one. (The old one that was good with 130,000 miles on it, is now running my '68 Chevy plow truck beast!)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep, crawled under there yesterday after turning the key and having no pump.
Wedged my hand in far enough to move the wires so they aimed straight at the place they enter the tank. Slid out, turned key, and instant running fuel pump! That after swapping relays, and removing/ testing inertia switch for electrical continuity.
Now I need a dry day to run new wire!
I'd say problem solved, but the fun is just beginning!
 

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Good job in tracing down the problem!

Too bad that plug-in is such a bear to reach.
Should be a cheap fix but a lot of labor to
access the plug. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bear is that I don't know where the break is. Could be anywhere from about 6" before the connector, all the way to where the wire enters the tank, possibly even just after the entry to the tank. No telling at this point. Going to have to drop the tank.
i drove it into town today in hopes of using some gas to make it easier to remove & it failed at the grocery store. It took a couple of hours to get it to run again.. :(
 
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