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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings!



This problem has developed over the last few monthes and has gotten worse to the point where it happens most of the time. When i bring the vehicle slowly to a stop the abs (motor?) kicks in more than half the time and pulsing the brakes right as i'm come to a stop... This happens warm or cold weather and when i have full traction, no ice, gravel, sand, etc. I have new brake pads and rotors all around and rebled the lines w/ no effect on the problem. Anyone have a similar problem?
 

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Try resetting the computer by unhooking the battery cable for at least 10 minutes.
 
G

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yea man, id try resetting the comp, i've never heard of a ford doing that, i've heard chevy having problems with the 4 wheel drive affecting the abs. hope we can help u out
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sorry, i have a '96 w/ 4wd, 4.0 ohv.

i will try disconnecting the battery tomorrow. i have the car in 2wd most of the time, and i'm not sure whether having the car in 4wd affects the problems, i'll try that tomorrow too. thanks for the tips, i'll let you know if this helps.
 
G

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Yup, got the same problem here. I guess its common for '95s and '96s. Someone said that all sensors have to be replaced and that their total came to around $400 including labor. My cheaper alternative, pull the ABS fuse!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm, i'll look into that. definitly don't want to drop 400 beans on this!

also, per my haynes manual...



"Brake systems on 1996 and earlier models w/ the four wheel anti-lock brake system (my truck) cannot be bled at home if air gets into the master cylinder and/or the hydraulic control unit (HCU). The first step in the bleeding procedure for these two components requires a special anti-lock test adapter which must be plugged into the control module. Any attempt to bleed the master cylinder and HCU w/o this special device will trap air in the HCU, which will result in a spongy brake pedal. All other models, earlier and later, can be bled conventionally.

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As long as no air has gotten into the master cylinder or the HCU, the brake lines and the caliper can be bled in the conventional manner...."



I bled the myself (I read the haynes manual a bit too late
). , i do not have a spongy feel at the pedal, and no warning light ever comes on. In fact, my brakes are the best they've ever been (except for this problem) since installing cross-drilled and slotted rotors all around, hawk hps pads, and rebleeding the system -improvements are so drastic that my brothers 2000 w/ stock brakes feels scary in comparison, can't believe i drove w/ the truck like that for so long. The problems was there before all that anyway. No air got in the system IMO.



any thoughts?
 

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Ok, you say this was a problem even before the new rotors? Could be bad sensors, have you cleaned them?



The samething happened with me when I installed new powerslots. When I put on the inner bearing and seal I happened to bend/move the abs sensor ring on the rotor. This caused the pulsing at stops you described above. It was pushed to far in and a little crooked. So I had to adjust it 'til it was even and the pulsing stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't yet checked the placement of the sensors or cleaned them. Resetting the computer didn't work, incidently I put in a new optima this past weekend. I might try pulling the fuse just for $h1ts & giggles, i can manage iceskating my truck to work this time of year!
 
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